Romanian Fast With Oil

Sarmale are Romania's national dish, and the fasting version is no lesser thing. During Lent, the pork and rice filling gives way to rice, mushrooms, and onions wrapped in sour cabbage leaves and slow-cooked until the whole pot melds into something deeply savory and comforting. In monasteries across Romania, these appear on every feast day that falls within a fasting period.

The key is the sour cabbage — not fresh, but fermented whole heads, the kind Romanians put up in barrels every autumn. The sourness of the leaves against the earthy mushroom filling is what makes this dish.

FASTING LEVEL: Fast With Oil
SERVINGS: 6 (about 18 rolls)
TIME: 2 hours 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

- 1 large head sauerkraut (fermented whole cabbage) or 18 large sauerkraut leaves
- 300g white rice, uncooked
- 300g mushrooms (button or cremini), very finely chopped
- 2 large onions, finely diced
- 3 tablespoons sunflower oil
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 500ml tomato passata or crushed tomatoes
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- Remaining sauerkraut, shredded, for layering
- Fresh dill for garnish

METHOD

1. Carefully separate the sauerkraut leaves. If they are very salty, rinse briefly. Trim the thick central rib of each leaf so it rolls easily. Set aside. Shred any remaining cabbage for layering.

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook the onions for 8-10 minutes until golden. Add the chopped mushrooms and cook for another 8 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are starting to brown. Add the tomato paste, both paprikas, and thyme. Stir for 1 minute.

3. Add the uncooked rice to the mushroom mixture. Stir to combine, season with salt and pepper, and let cool slightly. The rice will finish cooking inside the rolls.

4. Place a sauerkraut leaf flat on your work surface. Put 2-3 tablespoons of filling near the base of the leaf. Fold the sides in, then roll up tightly like a small parcel. Repeat with all leaves.

5. Line the bottom of a heavy pot or Dutch oven with shredded sauerkraut. Arrange the rolls seam-side down in tight layers. Tuck bay leaves and peppercorns between the layers. Pour the passata over the top, then add enough water to just cover the rolls.

6. Cover tightly and cook in the oven at 160°C (325°F) for 2 hours, or on the stovetop over very low heat for the same time. The liquid should barely simmer. The rolls are done when the rice is tender and the sauce has thickened.

7. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving. Garnish with fresh dill. Serve with mămăligă (polenta) on the side.

NOTES

- If you cannot find whole fermented cabbage, use jarred sauerkraut leaves. Fresh cabbage leaves, blanched and salted, will work but lack the essential sourness.
- The rolls shrink during cooking, so pack them tightly in the pot to prevent them unraveling.
- Sarmale are always better the next day. Make a full pot on Saturday, eat through the week.
- Some cooks add a handful of raisins to the filling for sweetness. This is traditional in some regions.

NUTRITION (approximate per serving, 3 rolls)
Calories: 345 | Protein: 9g | Carbs: 58g | Fat: 8g | Fiber: 5g | Iron: 3mg