Georgian Fast With Oil

Lobio is the beating heart of the Georgian fasting table. The word simply means "beans," but the dish itself is anything but simple — kidney beans simmered until they begin to collapse, layered with an aggressive amount of garlic, cilantro, blue fenugreek, and coriander, then finished with a crown of crushed walnuts. Every household in Georgia has a version, and every version is correct.

This is not some penitential gruel. Lobio is rich, deeply savory, and astonishingly high in protein. It has sustained Georgian Christians through Great Lent for centuries, and it will sustain you. Serve it in a clay pot (ketsi) if you have one, with cornbread (mchadi) on the side.

FASTING LEVEL: Fast With Oil (omit oil for strict days; cook onion in splash of water)
SERVINGS: 6
TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes (plus overnight soaking)

INGREDIENTS

- 500g dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight and drained
- 3 tablespoons sunflower oil or walnut oil (omit for strict fast)
- 2 large onions, finely diced
- 6 cloves garlic, crushed to a paste
- 1 tablespoon ground coriander seeds
- 1 teaspoon blue fenugreek (utskho suneli)
- 1 teaspoon dried marigold petals (imeruli shaphrani), optional
- 1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (or 1 teaspoon Georgian adjika)
- 1 cup walnuts, coarsely ground
- 1 large bunch fresh cilantro (about 80g), roughly chopped
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- Salt and black pepper to taste

METHOD

1. Place the soaked beans in a large pot, cover with fresh water by about 5cm, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 45-60 minutes until the beans are very tender — some should be breaking apart. Do not drain; you want about 1-1.5 cups of cooking liquid remaining.

2. While the beans cook, heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 8-10 minutes until deeply golden and sweet. For strict days, sweat the onions in 1/4 cup of bean cooking liquid instead.

3. Add the ground coriander, blue fenugreek, marigold petals, and pepper flakes to the onions. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant.

4. Add the onion-spice mixture to the pot of beans. Stir in the garlic paste, ground walnuts, and half the cilantro. Simmer for another 10 minutes, mashing some beans against the side of the pot to thicken the stew.

5. Remove from heat. Stir in the vinegar and season generously with salt and pepper. The stew should be thick but still spoonable — add a splash of hot water if needed.

6. Serve hot in deep bowls, scattered with the remaining cilantro. Accompany with mchadi (Georgian cornbread) or good crusty bread.

NOTES

- Blue fenugreek (utskho suneli) is not the same as regular fenugreek. It is milder and more aromatic. Find it at Georgian or Russian grocery stores, or substitute 1/2 teaspoon regular fenugreek plus a pinch of dried dill.
- Lobio improves dramatically overnight. Make it a day ahead if you can.
- Some cooks add a handful of chopped tkemali (sour plum) for tartness. A tablespoon of tamarind paste works in a pinch.
- Keeps refrigerated for 5 days. Freezes well.

NUTRITION (approximate per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 22g | Carbs: 44g | Fat: 18g (12g without oil) | Fiber: 16g | Iron: 6mg