Middle Eastern Fast With Oil

Stuffed grape leaves — warak enab in Arabic — are one of the great shared dishes of the Eastern Mediterranean, found from Greece through Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, and Palestine. The fasting version, stuffed with rice, herbs, and pine nuts rather than meat, is often preferred even when fasting rules do not apply. The grape leaves impart a distinct, slightly tart flavor to the rice filling as it steams, and the whole package is finished with a generous amount of lemon juice that soaks into every layer.

Making stuffed grape leaves is labor-intensive, there is no denying it. This is the kind of cooking best done with family or friends, rolling and talking, producing a pot of several dozen that will last through the week.

FASTING LEVEL: Fast With Oil (for strict days, omit the olive oil from the filling and the pot — use water and lemon only)
SERVINGS: 6-8 (makes about 40-50 rolls)
TIME: 1.5 hours (including rolling)

INGREDIENTS

- 1 jar (450g) preserved grape leaves, or about 50 fresh grape leaves
- 1.5 cups short-grain or medium-grain rice (Egyptian rice is ideal), rinsed
- 2 medium tomatoes, finely diced
- 1 large onion, finely diced
- 1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
- 1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup fresh mint, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup fresh dill, finely chopped (optional — the Syrian touch)
- 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- Juice of 3 lemons, divided
- 1 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 2-3 medium potatoes, sliced into rounds (to line the bottom of the pot)

METHOD

1. Prepare the grape leaves: if using jarred, remove from the jar, unroll carefully, and soak in warm water for 15 minutes to remove excess brine. Rinse and drain. If using fresh leaves, blanch in boiling water for 2-3 minutes until pliable, then shock in cold water.

2. Make the filling: combine the rice, tomatoes, onion, pine nuts, parsley, mint, dill, olive oil, juice of 1 lemon, allspice, cinnamon, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly. The rice is raw — it will cook inside the grape leaves.

3. To roll: lay a grape leaf flat, vein side up, stem end facing you. Trim the stem if it is thick. Place about 1 tablespoon of filling in a line near the stem end. Fold the bottom of the leaf up over the filling, fold in both sides, then roll away from you firmly but not too tightly — the rice needs room to expand. The roll should be about the size of your index finger.

4. Line the bottom of a heavy pot with the potato slices — this prevents the bottom layer of rolls from burning and the potatoes become delicious themselves.

5. Arrange the stuffed leaves seam-side down in the pot, packing them snugly in concentric circles, layering as needed. Place an inverted plate on top to keep them from unrolling during cooking.

6. Mix the juice of the remaining 2 lemons with enough water to just cover the rolls (about 2-3 cups). Pour this over the plate and into the pot. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt to the liquid.

7. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 45-55 minutes until the rice is tender and the grape leaves are soft. Check by carefully removing one roll and tasting.

8. Let the pot cool slightly before inverting onto a serving platter, or serve directly from the pot at room temperature with extra lemon wedges.

NOTES

- The potato slices at the bottom are the cook's reward. They absorb the lemon and olive oil and grape leaf flavor and are arguably better than the rolls themselves.
- Stuffed grape leaves are traditionally served at room temperature or cold, never hot. They improve overnight as the flavors meld.
- For a faster variation, use the same filling to stuff hollowed zucchini, small eggplants, or bell peppers (kousa mahshi). These cook in about 35-40 minutes.
- Warak enab freezes exceptionally well — freeze the cooked rolls in a single layer, then transfer to bags. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight.
- Some families add a few tablespoons of pomegranate molasses to the cooking liquid for a sweet-tart note. This is the Aleppan tradition and is outstanding.

NUTRITION (approximate per serving, 8 servings, about 5-6 rolls each)
Calories: 280 | Protein: 6g | Carbs: 42g | Fat: 10g | Fiber: 4g | Iron: 3mg